The Coastal Gardener - June, 2006
Building soil with mulch/ Native plants book
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The rain of late May did wonders. It damped down the dusty road and watered the garden just when it was starting to need it. No matter how much you irrigate, there is no comparison to a true soaking rain to make everything perk up.
The vegetable garden had been coming together in fits and starts. The fog and cold kept everything down and the seedlings and tomatoes are still not very big. But I have been setting out squash, beans, cilantro, and lettuce in the newly turned beds. Flowers are out there to in theform of signet marigolds, zinnias and sttriped cannas. Vegetables are very heavy feeders so I not only add rich compost to the soil at planting time but also top-dress the beds with a thin layer of composted steer manure. As the seasons progress, the manure is worked into the soil improving it's community of beneficial fungi and earthworms.
Recently I was asked why I don't just use a commercial liquid fertilizer like MiracleGro. While those products give you fast results, they really do nothing to improve the condition of your soil. It would be like giving your house a new paint job while termites are destroying it. The soil is ultimately what the plants must use to grow and if it is poor condition, a quick dose of plant food is not really doing much good. The soil is the most important element to your garden and needs constant attention. This attention does not have to mean backbreaking work; it can be rather simple.
Layers of compost, manure, or mulch improve the soil dramatically and require little work other than spreading the stuff around. Each layer will break down and be drawn into the soil by the action of worms, rain, and cold. In some areas of my garden that have seen little attention from the cultivator in over 9 years, the depth of the soil has increased over 6 inches simply from the build up of composting organic mulch.
A friend of mine goes even further in creating whole new garden beds over bare rocky soil. He mounds up cut branches, clippings, leaves, and other organic matter then covers it with manure and straw to create "in situ" compost heaps. The heaps are kept covered to retain moisture and within one season have turned from piles of refuse into long healthy garden beds. Amazingly, these long piles hold moisture long into the summer and his tomatoes and peppers thrive on them.
I have been in a reading mood with all the cold foggy nights of last month. As the fog swirled among the manzanita and ceanothus outside my window, I sat by the fire and read "California Native Plants for the Garden." The book was co-written by
Carol Bornstein of Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, David Foss of Native Sons Nursery, and Bart O'Brien of Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden. These three are very instrumental in the modern native plant movement.
The SBBG and RSA gardens are leaders in introducing new native cultivars for our gardens and their book takes a more practical garden-oriented approach. They profile many fine plants along with suggestions for how to use them in a finished and sophisticated landscape. They even go so far as to suggest that we GROOM the plants to keep them looking tidy and presentable (horror of horrors to the native plant enthusiast), even if it means adding a little extra irrigation (another horror!) in summer. Finally, some educated people who think natives CAN be used just like other plants and look good at it too (absolute blasphemy)! A definite must have book for the Big Sur garden from Cachuma Press (www.CachumaPress.com).
The cold wet weather of May was also ideal for the sexual habits of pests such as slugs, snails and aphids. Apparently there is nothing that gets these guys in the mood more than cold and wet so deal with them with a sharp eye, swift boot and strong hand. I really never spray for aphids, preferring to use some finger and thumb action to strip them off the rose buds. So much more efficient and cost effective and it leaves some bits behind for the ladybug larvae to eat for lunch. If you are little more squeamish especially when it comes to slugs and snails, try some of the new Chelated Iron snail baits available. Not only are they safe around pets but also they feed your garden. Chelated iron is a soil mineral that is essential for encouraging good green foliage on citrus, camellias, azaleas, and angles trumpet.
Must have plant of the month: Vitex trifolia 'Purpurea'. I came across this subtropical shrub quite by accident at the nursery one day. It is evergreen with soft felted leaves that are olive green on top, rich velvet purple underneath. The two-tone effect of the leaves is quite stunning, especially in bright sunlight, and it has become one of my favorite shrubs. It blooms summer and fall with long spikes of pale blue flowers. Ideal for full sun and somewhat drought tolerant.
Enjoy!
Dave Egbert
